Page 83 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Textile & Handloom Related Theory for Exercise 1.5.43-48
Shawl Weaving Artisan - Weaving and Designing

Introduction to textile weaves and design

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• explain twill weave and its derivatives
• explain 5 end satin and sateen weave
• explain huck-a-back and mock leno weave
• explain honey comb weave (ordinary and brighton honey comb weave).

Twill weave: Twill weave is another basic weave which is 4 Diaper design/dice check design.
well known for its diagonal line formation in the fabric due 5 Broken twill.
to its interlacing pattern. This weave and its derivatives
are used for the ornamental purposes. Twill has closer
setting of yarns due to less interlacement imparting
greater weight and good drape as compared to the
plain weave. In simple twill, the outward and upward
movement of the interlacing pattern is always one that
imparts a diagonal line to this design. The direction of
the propagation of twill line classifies twill into right-hand
or left-hand twill. Twill weaves are more closely woven,
heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber
and yarn size. They can be produced in fancy designs.
Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill
cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth, blankets, shirtings,
hangings and soft furnishings. 1 Zigzag/waved/pointed twill weave
Plain twill are of 2 types S twill and Z twill. • It is the simplest and one of the most important
modifications of twill weave produced by reversing
1 S-Twill: When the twill runs from the lower right to the direction of twill at suitable interval.
the upper left corner, the twill is known as a left-hand
twill. It is produced by downward displacement of • A point is selected (usually the last warp is
the interlacing points, if the starting point is bottom selected) as the reversing point and so it is
left corner or upward displacement of the interlacing sometime call as point twill.
points, if the starting point is bottom right corner. For • In this twill pointed or straight draft is used.
example, it is expressed by the formula number 3/2S, • This twill is produced by combining S and Z twist.
where S-indicate the direction of twill line. (Fig 1)
According to reversing of direction there are two type of
zigzag twill

1 Horizontal zigzag twill.
2 Vertical zigzag twill.
Horizontal zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of
twill line occurs upon the warp yarn, it results a horizontal
zigzag twill. Here the basic twill is extended in warp
direction. Here the number of warp yarn in a repeat is
double of the number of wefts. In horizontal zigzag twill
pointed draft is used. (Fig 3)
2 Z-Twill: When the diagonal line runs from the lower left Vertical zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill
corner to the upper right corner, the twill is known as a line occurs upon the weft yarn, it results a vertical zigzag
right-hand twill. About85% of all twill-woven fabrics are twill, here the basic twill is extended in weft direction.
right-hand twill. The alignment of twill Line is parallel Here the number of weft yarn in a repeat is double of the
to the middle portion of ‘Z’, so it is called Z – twill. number of warps. In Vertical zigzag twill straight draft is
(Fig 2)
used. (Fig 4)
There are many derivatives of twill are given bellow 2 Hearing bone twill
1 Zigzag/waved/pointed twill weave. This twill is constructed in a different manner from the
2 Herringbone twill. ordinary zigzag twill. Though it also depends on reversal
of twill direction.
3 Diamond design.
73